You hear a scratch behind the stove on a cold evening, or you find a chewed corner on a cereal box in the pantry. If you just typed "how to get rid of mice in house" into a search bar, take a breath. Mice are a common cold-weather problem, and a calm, methodical plan works better than a panicked trip to the hardware store.
However you phrased it, even "how to rid of mice in house," the plan is the same: confirm the problem, find and seal the way in, take away food and shelter, trap the mice already inside, clean up safely, and add repellents at entry points.
The Short Answer
To get rid of mice in your house, you have two jobs: stop new mice from getting in, and remove the ones already inside. The CDC builds its rodent guidance around three actions: seal up, trap up, and clean up. Sealing keeps the problem from coming back, snap traps handle the mice already indoors, and careful cleanup removes droppings without stirring up dust. Repellents can add a layer at entry points, but they do not remove mice that have moved in.
Timing matters too. UC Integrated Pest Management (UC IPM) notes that house mice frequently enter homes in autumn when nights get colder, and the National Pest Management Association (NPMA) reports that 45 percent of rodent issues occur in fall and winter. A mouse in November does not mean you keep a dirty home. It means there is a gap somewhere.
How to Get Rid of Mice in Your House, Step by Step
Step 1: Confirm What You Are Dealing With
The CDC notes that droppings and gnaw marks usually show up before you see a rodent, and that droppings are often hidden in cabinets and drawers. Check under the sink, behind the stove and refrigerator, along baseboards, and in the pantry, and note where you find signs. Our checklist of the signs of mice in your house covers what to look for.
Step 2: Find How They Are Getting In
The CDC says mice can fit through a hole about the width of a pencil, roughly 1/4 inch. Outside, check the roof line and eaves, around windows and doors, the gap between the foundation and the ground, attic and crawl space vents, and every spot where utility lines enter. Inside, check under and behind kitchen cabinets, around pipes under sinks, around dryer vents, and where the floor meets the wall. For a full map, read how mice get into your house.
Step 3: Seal the Gaps
The CDC recommends filling small holes with steel wool held in place with caulk or spray foam, and using lath screen, hardware cloth, metal sheeting, or cement for larger openings. UC IPM adds that plastic, rubber, vinyl, expanding foam, and wood are ineffective as plugs because mice gnaw through them, and that steel wool pads may rust over time. So foam and caulk should hold metal in place, not act as the plug. Our guide to steel wool for mice goes deeper on materials.
Step 4: Take Away Food and Shelter
The CDC recommends storing food in thick plastic, metal, or glass containers with tight lids, cleaning spills right away, putting pet food away after feeding, and not leaving food or water bowls out overnight. Keep trash in a lidded can and clear cardboard and clutter from storage areas. Be realistic: UC IPM notes that cleaning and decluttering alone will seldom completely control house mice. It supports the other steps rather than replacing them.
Step 5: Trap the Mice Already Inside
The CDC recommends traditional snap traps. Set them against a wall with the food end touching the wall so the trap forms a "T," because mice prefer to run along walls. Good spots include behind the stove and refrigerator, the back of cabinets, and low-traffic areas like the basement or attic. The CDC suggests a small amount of chunky peanut butter. It advises against glue traps and live traps, which can frighten rodents into urinating. Keep traps out of reach of children and pets, check them daily, and keep resetting them until activity stops.
Step 6: Clean Up Safely
The CDC says not to sweep or vacuum droppings, urine, or nesting material, because this can release virus-containing droplets into the air. Open doors and windows for 30 minutes before cleaning and leave the area meanwhile. Wear rubber or plastic gloves, spray the area with disinfectant or a fresh bleach solution (1.5 cups of bleach in 1 gallon of water) until very wet, and let it soak 5 minutes. Wipe up with paper towels, bag them in a covered trash can, and wash your hands well afterward.
Step 7: Add Repellents at Entry Points
Once gaps are sealed and trapping is underway, a scent repellent can make garages, sheds, storage rooms, and areas near entry points less inviting. Keep expectations honest: NC State Extension says there is some evidence that certain odors can repel mice, but that repellents are not a reliable form of mouse management or prevention, and highly volatile oils disappear quickly. Treat a repellent as an extra layer, refresh it on schedule, and keep it away from food, children, and pets.
When to Call a Licensed Pest Control Professional
The CDC suggests hiring a pest control specialist if rodents are in areas you cannot reach to clean, and seeking professional help if trapping does not solve the problem. Droppings that keep reappearing after you clean are another signal, since the CDC says that means rodents are likely still active.
Cheat Sheet
- Look for droppings and gnaw marks first, and note where they are.
- Inspect inside and outside for gaps about 1/4 inch or larger.
- Seal with steel wool plus caulk or foam, or hardware cloth, metal, or cement.
- Store food, pet food, and trash in containers with tight lids.
- Use snap traps along walls in a "T," not glue traps or live traps.
- Air out the space, wet droppings with disinfectant, never sweep or vacuum.
- Add repellents near entry points as an extra layer, not a fix.
- Call a licensed pest control professional if signs keep coming back.
Where BioGuard Fits
We sell BioGuard Natural Rodent Repellent, so here is the honest version. BioGuard is a pack of 12 scent balls infused with peppermint and cinnamon essential oils, meant for garages, sheds, storage areas, garden edges, car engine compartments, and spots near entry points. It is a repellent, not a removal product, so it belongs in Step 7, after sealing and trapping. Replace it every 4 to 6 weeks, keep it away from children, pets, and food, and expect results to vary.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the fastest way to get rid of mice in the house?
There is no overnight fix. The quickest route is to seal entry points and set snap traps at the same time, so no new mice arrive while you remove the ones inside.
If I see one mouse, are there more?
Probably. The NPMA notes that mice breed rapidly, so if you spot one, it is likely there are others. Check cabinets, drawers, and walls for droppings to judge how widespread it is.
Will mice leave on their own?
Do not count on it. A mouse that has found warmth, food, and shelter has little reason to move on in winter. Sealing, removing food, and trapping are what change the situation.
Do ultrasonic repellers get rid of mice?
UC IPM says there is little evidence that sound, magnetic, or vibrational devices will drive established house mice out of a building. Put your effort into sealing and trapping first.
Sources
- CDC, Controlling Wild Rodent Infestations
- CDC, How to Seal Up to Prevent Rodents
- CDC, How to Trap Up to Remove Rodents
- CDC, How to Clean Up After Rodents
- UC Integrated Pest Management, House Mouse
- NC State Extension, Surveillance and Management of Common Structure-Invading Mice
- National Pest Management Association, How to Spot Mice or Rats in the Home